Aaron Grubb Photography: Blog https://aarongrubb.com/blog en-us (C) Aaron Grubb Photography (Aaron Grubb Photography) Fri, 09 Apr 2021 15:37:00 GMT Fri, 09 Apr 2021 15:37:00 GMT https://aarongrubb.com/img/s/v-12/u1042677473-o829274995-50.jpg Aaron Grubb Photography: Blog https://aarongrubb.com/blog 120 120 Check Out My New Album (2021) https://aarongrubb.com/blog/2021/3/check-out-my-new-album-2021 I worked on a lot of music in 2020, but the majority of it was cover songs of music from the video game franchise, The Legend of Zelda. I released my full album on January 1st, 2021 as sort of a New Years resolution to focus my energy on music. Please listen to it and let me know what you think. Short articles were written about it on the Zelda Universe and Zelda Dungeon websites as well as being mentioned on the Another Zelda Podcast. I was also interviewed by Celeste from the Boss Rush Games podcast for their 1v1 series. 

The tweet below is from one of the hosts of Tandem Legends, a podcast where they discuss The Legend of Zelda games as they play through them. 


Listen to my album below or click on THIS LINK for more options: 

(Aaron Grubb Photography) ballad of the windfish gerudo valley Legend of Zelda Link's awakening majora's mask ocarina of time orchestra piano relaxing music song of healing twilight princess zelda's lullaby https://aarongrubb.com/blog/2021/3/check-out-my-new-album-2021 Tue, 02 Mar 2021 22:15:32 GMT
The Emberwood Project https://aarongrubb.com/blog/2021/1/the-emberwood-project  

The Emberwood Project

I always seem to have ideas floating through my mind - inventions, music, photography, writing, etc. and I rarely have time to pursue them, but in the last couple of years, I’ve put some energy into The Emberwood Project. It all started with a photo I did with my son. We all love The Legend of Zelda around here, so naturally, I had him dress up in his Link outfit for a photoshoot.

This also created a “problem”: Now my daughter needs a fantasy shoot! This time I didn’t want to worry about copyright, so we created our own character. Since my son’s character was a swordsman, I thought we’d mix things up and make her an archer. I wanted it to feel authentic (and figured it would be good "research" for the story), so I started making her an outfit by hand with a headband, bracer, side bag, quiver, a bow, and some arrows. I made the arrows from shafts I found in the back yard, made the fletchings from real feathers, and glued the arrowhead in with pitch from our pine tree.

Here are some of the completed photos - I've finished 3 and have 2 almost done:

At some point, I got a little carried away and created a whole world, mythology, history, characters, and outlined a plot for the story. I’m a very long way from finishing the story, but it’s coming along.

I started neglecting the story as I started to focus more on my music, but this also led me to compose a cinematic theme song for the story, as if it was a movie or TV show. Here it is:



(Aaron Grubb Photography) cinematic Emberwood fantasy fiction original music photography https://aarongrubb.com/blog/2021/1/the-emberwood-project Sun, 24 Jan 2021 01:05:26 GMT
Just Released: My Music https://aarongrubb.com/blog/2020/3/listen-to-my-music After begging my parents for a piano for a while, I finally got one and started piano lessons when I was six. Through high school, college, and after that, I taught myself the basics of bass guitar, electric and acoustic guitar, mandolin, etc. After writing some music here and there, I decided to take a break to focus on photography. I had two reasons for this: 1) I have kids and it was hard to focus on multiple things 2) I was frustrated with my music. I didn't think it was anything more than mediocre and I had major writers block. 

Well, I recently rekindled my interest in music and put out a number of songs on many streaming platforms - Spotify, Apple Music, iTunes, YouTube, Amazon, iHeartradio, and a bunch more from around the world. So far, it's all instrumental music - many are covers of popular songs along with some original music. Please go check it out or preview my music below via the Spotify player. The link below contains links to many of the streaming services that I'm a part of. Thank you for your support. Please email me with questions: 


(Aaron Grubb Photography) amazon apple artist audio cdbaby cover game guitar iheartradio indie instrumental itunes midi music orchestral pandora piano relaxing song spitfire spotify symphonic video walla zelda https://aarongrubb.com/blog/2020/3/listen-to-my-music Tue, 17 Mar 2020 18:44:18 GMT
DSLR & Mirrorless Jumpstart Guide https://aarongrubb.com/blog/2019/8/dslr-mirrorless-jumpstart-guide DSLR & Mirrorless Jumpstart Guide



While beginning your journey as a photographer, whether you’re doing it for fun or business, keep in mind that every good photographer was once a beginner just like you. I, for one, got my first DSLR camera before I knew a single thing besides which button “takes the picture”. All of my indoor pictures were blurry, my landscape pictures didn’t look right (or boring), and the pictures I took of people seemed one-dimensional (or out of focus). This guide will cover camera basics like how to use semi-manual settings like Aperture Priority, Shutter Priority, Auto ISO, and Manual. It will also explain why your pictures might be blurry, which lenses may be right for you, focusing modes, metering modes, and much more. This guide is packed with information, so you might have to re-read certain parts or skip around to different pieces of information as you need them. 



I think that exposure, in its simplest terms, is how bright or dark your image turns out. So, if your image is too bright, it is said to be “overexposed”. Conversely, if it is too dark, it is said to be underexposed. You can control your exposure by doing several things. If you’re in auto mode or one of the semi-auto modes like aperture priority, shutter priority, or auto ISO, then you’ll have to use exposure compensation to make your exposure brighter or darker. Check your manual to find out how to change your exposure compensation. Every camera is different, so I can’t list them all here. To change your exposure in manual mode, you have to change your ISO, aperture, and shutter speed manually...as you might imagine.

Under-Exposed Over-Exposed Properly-Exposed


Exposure Modes 

Manual (M): all exposure settings are manual with one exception: sometimes Auto ISO is turned on. If you want to have full control over your exposure, make sure Auto-ISO is off. 

Aperture Priority (A): You control the aperture; shutter speed is automatic 

Shutter Priority (S): You control the shutter speed; the aperture is automatic

Programmed Auto (P): You control ISO and various other settings (depending on the camera brand), but shutter speed and aperture are automatic



Many people call ISO “sensor sensitivity”. That’s not completely correct, but we’ll discuss that another time as I don’t want to overcomplicate things. What you need to know is that at lower ISOs, the exposure is darker and at higher ISOs, the image is brighter. The problem is that the higher your ISO, the more “noise” that you get. {picture of high ISO noise} Each camera is different and everyone seems to be okay with a different amount of noise, so get to know how “noisy” your camera is at high ISOs. My first camera was very noisy after ISO 800, so I tried to never go over that, but my current camera produces acceptable images at 6400, depending on what type of photography I’m doing. If I’m doing portraits, I want the cleanest image possible, so I’ll keep it under 1600. For landscapes, I try to keep it near 100, but for events, I’ve gone as high as 12,800 since the need to capture the moment outweighs the need for clean images. 

Noisy Image 1Image taken at high ISO Noisy Image 2Image taken at high ISO

Shutter Speed

All cameras have either an electronic shutter or a physical one. Either way, shutter speed can be defined as: the amount of time that the sensor is capturing light (or, in the case of a mechanical shutter: when the shutter is open). If your shutter speed is set to 1/500, the sensor is capturing light for one five-hundredth of a second. There are different applications for using shutter speed creatively. 

If you’ve seen a picture with blurred headlights at night, blurred clouds, or a silky-smooth waterfall, then you’ve seen the effects of slow shutter speed at work. Things like this start to blur when you approach shutter speeds of one second and get more pronounced the slower you make it. Just make sure you use a tripod for this kind of image.

Blurred car lights - long exposure
Most of the time, you don’t want to end up with blurry pictures, though, so you need to follow some rules of thumb. The first is called the “reciprocal rule”. Simply put, you want your shutter speed to be double that of your focal length, so if you’re using a 50mm lens, your shutter speed should be 1/100 or faster. For action (like sports), your shutter speed should be at 1/500 at the very minimum. I’ve had blurry images from 1/500, but I’ve also had sharp images at 1/500, too, but if you want the maximum number of “keepers”, you might want to increase it to 1/1000 or better. 



Inside your lens, there is an iris, much like the one that is in your eye, that opens to let in more light or closes to restrict the light. Immediately, you likely inferred why you would want your aperture to be as wide as possible: to let in the maximum amount of light possible. Aperture is notated with a lower-case “f” in front of it. We don’t have to talk about the mathematical equation associated with that, but what you need to know is that the lower the f-number, the wider the aperture is and the more light it lets in. So, conversely, the higher the f-number, the smaller the aperture and the less light it lets in. Another thing happens when you adjust your aperture. It changes the amount your image that is in focus. This is referred to as “depth of field”. If you have your 50mm lens on (again), and you open your aperture to 1.8 (very wide), and you take a picture of someone close by, you’ll notice that more of the background and foreground are out of focus than when it’s “stopped down” (reduced) to f4 or f8. Now you can understand why so many portraits have a blurred background: most likely because the photographer is using a wider aperture. A couple of other things can affect depth of field though: focal length and your distance from your subject. The closer you are to a subject, the thinner or shallower the depth of field will be. The farther you are from the subject, the deeper the depth of field (more will be in focus). As far as focal length goes, the “longer” the lens (greater number of mm), the less will be in focus. Again, conversely, the wider the lens, the more you’ll have in focus (deeper depth of field). So, in summary, three things affect your depth of field: aperture (f-number), distance, and focal length. You can apply this information in a number of ways. If you’re capturing a landscape, you want as much of the scene in focus as possible, so you might use a wide lens, a small aperture (high f-number like f8 or greater), and, if it’s something like a mountain, be a very long way from your subject. These three things combined, give you a very deep depth of field. 

Small Aperture Large Aperture

On the opposite end of the spectrum, if you want to take a portrait with a shallow depth of field to blur the background, you might use a wide aperture (a low f-number), a longer lens (greater number of mm), and get closer to your subject. You don’t need an expensive lens to do this, either. I’ve seen it done with a $250 zoom lens at its long end of 300mm and the “look” of the image was quite nice. 


Balancing Your Exposure

Let’s say you adjust and "dial in" your settings and you’re happy with your exposure, but, for some reason, you want to change some settings - for example, if you WANT motion blur, you might lower your shutter speed (increasing the exposure). You’ll either have to decrease your ISO or your aperture. You can practice this concept by pointing your camera at an evenly-lit scene while you are changing your settings. Once you get your exposure set where you want it, you can count “clicks” or third stops while you change one setting (like shutter speed), then adjust the next setting (like aperture) by the same number of clicks to compensate. Shown below is a useful tool to show beginners how ISO, shutter speed, and aperture, affect each other when one is changed.

Exposure Cheat Sheet



We’ll keep this section short. There’s a lot to say about composition, but as a beginner, the rule I used most (and still use, by default), is the rule of thirds. If you divide your frame into thirds, both horizontally and vertically like in the picture [below?], you’ll be able to visualize how this works. If you’re taking a picture of a landscape, for example, you won’t want to put your horizon directly in the middle of your frame. You’ll want to at least start with it on the upper or lower third line. You can use this rule of thumb in portraits, too. Let’s say you’re taking a head-and-shoulders picture of a person. If you’re in landscape orientation, most of the time, you’ll want to position the person’s head around where the upper third line intersects with the vertical lines. There are exceptions to this rule, of course, but this rule is a good place to start. 

Rule of Thirds Rule of Thirds

As with many things involving creativity, there is no right answer when discussing the rule of thirds and other rules and guidelines. In fact, sometimes rules are made to be broken, so I'd say, follow the rules at first, master them, then have fun breaking them. 

Position of the Sun & Time of Day

When shooting portraits, I personally avoid direct sunlight on the model/subject’s face and also avoid shooting when the sun is high in the sky as this will result in harsh shadows and “racoon eyes”. There are ways to get around this but that’s a subject for another guide. You soften the shadows, you can use a reflector, which can be an inexpensive item. Alternatively, look for shade and position your subject so that there are no spots of light on them and so that the background isn’t in the sun, either. Ideally, though, you should shoot when the sun is lower in the sky and shoot so that the sun is at a 45 degree angle to your lens and behind the subject. This is another rule of thumb that can be fairly flexible. Once again, using a reflector might be helpful to fill in the shadows on the subject’s face. The below image was taken with the sun behind the subject late in the day and a reflector was used. 

Backlit image

Focusing modes

On most cameras, there are three main focusing modes: Single, where the AF system focuses once and stays focused on that spot as long as your finger stays half-pressed on the shutter button; Continuous, where the AF is constantly tracking and refocusing on subjects; and a hybrid mode where the camera decides when it needs to use single or continuous modes - this may be called Auto or Hybrid Auto or something similar. 

This is fairly simple: Use the “single” AF mode for non-moving subjects like landscapes and portraits (unless the subject is moving around - like kids), and use continuous when your subject is moving, like kids, sports, wildlife, and some events (think: wedding party walking up or down the aisle). 

I’ll leave using the hybrid or other modes up to you. I don’t use them as I switch between “single” and continuous modes instead of letting the camera choose. 


Metering Modes

If you shoot in manual, you won’t have to worry about this setting, but if you are using an automatic or semi-automatic mode, then this can be crucial. Most of the time, you can depend on the default mode sometimes referred to as “matrix” or “evaluative” metering. It evaluates the whole scene and chooses what it things is appropriate. 

Spot metering should only be used when you are ready to try something new or if the default mode isn’t working for you. When using this mode, the camera will correctly expose the spot that your focus point is currently on, so if, for example, your focus point is on a person whose back is to the sun (and their face is dark), it will brighten the exposure until they are correctly exposed, but in the process, everything else could be overexposed. This mode can be useful, but only when used intentionally and with practice. There are other modes like the “center-weighted” mode that I sometimes used on my Canon, but these are the main two you should be aware of. 


Lenses: Primes Vs Zooms

Most people use zoom lenses, especially when they get their first camera kit. They are inexpensive (in the grand scheme of things) and versatile in that they allow you to change your focal length at will. However, as you gain experience in shooting in different environments, you will discover that inexpensive zoom lenses are not very good in low light. This is because they don’t have a very wide aperture, so they don’t let in as much light. Wider aperture zooms can be expensive, though. That’s where prime lenses come into play. Prime lenses (or sometimes just called “primes”) are simply lenses that don’t zoom; lenses that have a “fixed” focal length. The more important thing to note is that many, but not all, primes have a wider aperture than zooms. This makes them ideal for shooting in darker conditions like indoors or late evening outdoors. Primes are also favored by astrophotographers: photographers that capture photos of the night’s sky. Personally, I use zooms at events when the light is good, then switch to primes when the light becomes less favorable. Primes are also usually small and light and are often, but not always, sharper than zooms.


Do I Need to Buy Lens Filters?

Lens filters are special glass elements surrounded by a metal ring that screw into the front of your lens, and modify the light in one way or another. There are many filters available for purchase, but do you need them at this point? Most of the time, if you have to ask this question about any accessory, it might be worth waiting so you save yourself some money and confusion. As you master your camera, you can add more tools to your kit, one at a time. For now, though, we’ll talk about some of the filters you can buy and what they’re used for. 


UV Filters

UV filters are filters that reduce the amount of ultraviolet (UV) light entering your lens. This used to be important to have when everyone was using film because certain types of film were sensitive to UV light. Also called “Haze” filters, they improved image quality. Nowadays, we don't necessarily need UV filters anymore, but people continue to use them to protect the front element of their lenses. Is this necessary? This can be a controversial topic because low quality UV filters can potentially reduce your image quality. I, personally, don’t use them. I used them on my first two cameras, but after figuring out that it caused more flare than usual and that it caused my camera some focusing difficulty, I removed the filter. I have never scratched any of my lenses, but just in case, I now use my lens hoods most of the time. They are the hard plastic type, so they do a pretty good job. If you’re a beginner, then it might be worth getting. Most of us don't have the money to replace our lenses if they get scratched, so better safe than sorry, right? 



CPL filters are also called “Circular Polarizer” filters. They cut down on something called polarized light that I can’t really explain. I can, however, tell you how they can be very useful. Let’s say you’re taking a picture of a landscape and the sky is really bright and not the dark blue that you were hoping for. If you attach a CPL and rotate it a bit, you’ll find that the sky darkens and becomes a beautiful deep blue. This can be especially handy as it gives you more dynamic range to work with. 

Another way you can use CPLs is when you are taking pictures with reflections. If you want the reflections, then you don’t need to use the CPL, necessarily. You can reduce reflections on water, windows, and light reflecting off of other objects, such as leaves or pavement. You just have to rotate the filter until the reflection is reduced or eliminated.  


ND Filters

ND Filters, otherwise known as Neutral Density filters are what are often described as “sunglasses for your lens”. They cut down on the amount of light that gets through your lens and to the sensor. If you are shooting during the day and find that you are unable to reduce your shutter speed enough to get the effect that you’re looking for, then an ND filter may be for you. By darkening your exposure, it allows you to use lower shutter speeds than you wouldn't be able to, normally. A good example of when you would need this is when you’re taking pictures of waterfalls, running water, car lights, and moving clouds. If you want to blur them, then you’ll often (but not always) need an ND filter. 

A long exposure @ 30 seconds


Colored Filters

Back in the “film days”, colored filters could be quite helpful. Certain filters could be used to counteract certain artificial light sources such as fluorescent or tungsten lights. When shooting on black and white film, you could use different colors to increase contrast, darken the sky, and other effects. Nowadays, it’s advisable to apply those effects after the fact, when you process your photos on your computer. 


Formatting Memory Cards

There are two main ways that you can format a memory card: in-camera and in your computer. Camera manufacturers and memory card manufacturers alike recommend formatting your memory cards in-camera. Refer to your manual to find out how to do this. 



This discussion can be controversial, but let me give you a short answer: if you’re a beginner, just shoot jpg until you get more into post-processing. Here’s the long answer: RAW files contain all of the info captured by your sensor without any color, contrast, or sharpening effects applied. This can be important when you want full control of your images. RAW files will also have more dynamic range, so you’ll be able to pull more detail out of your seemingly “blown” highlights and dark shadows. It also will allow you more control of the color balance. Another thing to consider is that RAW files are much bigger, so if you don’t have a lot of hard drive space, you might want to start with jpg files. Another thing to keep in mind when your hard drive space is limited is culling. Culling is the process of selecting your best images and deleting the unneeded excess. This can be difficult for some people (like me!), but it is a valuable way to save space. 


Do I need a Flash?

I honestly don’t think that most people need a flash. When I use a flash, it’s off of the camera, usually, and triggered by a transmitter that mounts where the flash normally would: in the hot shoe. This is called OCF or “off camera flash”. That’s a subject for another time, though. The other way I use my flash is as you’d expect: ON the camera. I rarely ever do this, but when I do, it’s usually in a very dark environment and I have no other option. When I have my flash in the hot shoe mount, I almost never have it pointed forward - I try to bounce the light off of walls and ceilings as much as possible to avoid the “deer in the headlights” look and to make the photo look as natural as possible. So do you need a flash? I would say that if you take pictures indoors a lot in somewhat dark rooms, it could be quite helpful, or even necessary in some situations. 

bare flash in the face Bounced Flash

Most lower-end and mid-level cameras have a pop-up flash that only points forward. Personally, I would only ever use this as a last resort as it will cause the same problem as previously mentioned. There are gadgets that you can buy that will enable you to bounce your pop-up flash on the ceiling so that you'll have more even light.


Why Are My Images Blurry?

The below sections have some information that is similar to the Shutter Speed, ISO, and Aperture sections, but are separate for the purpose of troubleshooting.


Slow shutter speed/camera shake


When your shutter speed is low, you’ll notice that your pictures are far more likely to be blurry. This will also happen if you move the camera too much when taking a picture. These two things go hand in hand. If your technique is good and you can hold the camera very steady while taking a picture, you can get away with a lower shutter speed if your subject(s) aren't moving too much, but as a rule of thumb, I recommend following the “reciprocal rule”, at the very least. This means that you take your focal length (x) and set your shutter speed at the reciprocal number (1/x). For example, if your focal length is 50mm, then the reciprocal is 1/50, so set your shutter speed at 1/50 or higher. I personally recommend that you double that number, so the recommendation of 1/50 would be 1/100. 


High ISO


Every camera is different, but at some point, as you increase your ISO, you’ll start to see some grain and/or “noise”. Along with noise and grain, you will also lose sharpness.

To compare, you might take one picture with your camera at ISO 100 and another at ISO 6400 (or higher), if it can go that high. You should see some degradation of the image at this point whether it manifests as grain or “color noise” (the tiny, unsightly spots of random color that can start appearing) or subtle or significant loss of sharpness.  


Missed Focus 


Missing focus can sometimes be the fault of the camera, especially in low light, but if the depth of field is shallow, such as when you are using a lens with a wide aperture, then it’s easy for you or your subject to cause a slightly out-of-focus image. This can be solved in a number of ways. 


1 - use continuous focus

I don’t usually recommend this, but it may improve the number of shots that are in focus even if you’re both slightly moving, but do some tests before employing this solution to make sure your camera does a good job in continuous focus mode. 

2 - use a tripod or monopod

This is not a very convenient solution but can be helpful if you find that your movement is the culprit. 

3 - take more shots

In this age of digital photography, there are no disadvantages to taking more pictures other than using more storage, but you only need to keep the best ones, anyway. 

4 - breathe like a sniper

If shooting with a shallow depth of field is the issue, then try this. Marksmen often employ breathing techniques to stay steady. The simplest method I’ve heard of is this: While holding your camera in a stable position, take a breath and slowly exhale while taking your shot or shots. This should make you more steady. This technique could also be used when you’re using a low shutter speed. 

5 - Increase your depth of field by increasing your aperture (f-number). If you're at 1.4, increase it to 2, etc. and see if you get more 'keepers' 


Your Lens Needs to be Calibrated


To test to see if your focus is off, I recommend purchasing a calibration chart or tool. One of the less expensive options is the Focus Pyramid. After testing, if you find that the lens needs calibration, check your manual to see if your camera is capable of adjusting focus in-camera. If it is, then you can adjust it accordingly. If it isn’t, then you’ll have to send the camera and lens to the manufacturer for adjustment.


Image Stabilization is On While Using a Tripod


I’ve heard from multiple sources that if you use image stabilization while you have your camera mounted to a tripod, that some of your images may come out blurry. I believe that this is caused by the lens attempting to correct for movement that isn’t occurring, and therefore causing motion blur instead of fixing it. 



Thank you for reading my guide. If you have questions, comments, or suggestions on how to improve this guide, please click on the "Contact" tab of my website and leave me a message.

See what gear I use here: https://kit.co/aarongrubb/what-s-in-my-sony-kit
See what speedlights, etc I recommend for your first off camera flash kit: https://kit.com/aarongrubb/photography-lighting-starter-kit-inexpensive


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(Aaron Grubb Photography) aperture aperture priority better photographer blurry pictures camera shake crash course exposure how to use mirrorless camera image stabilization improve photography iso learn photography lens filters manual mode metering modes noise photographer photography prime lenses raw vs jpg rule of thirds shutter priority shutter speed troubleshooting https://aarongrubb.com/blog/2019/8/dslr-mirrorless-jumpstart-guide Thu, 29 Aug 2019 15:09:39 GMT
Invisibility Cloak? How To Fake it in Video https://aarongrubb.com/blog/2018/1/invisibility-cloak-how-to-fake-it-in-video Hi All, 

this is a preliminary post. I will follow it up with a full how-to. If I get a lot of interest from this post, I'll hurry up and post the how-to. For now, I'll post the video below and say this: I've seen the video around that claims to be a Chinese government official showing off some cloaking technology in the form of an 'invisibility cloak'. My first impression was that they used a green screen to achieve the effect. I proceeded to look it up on Snopes.com and they verified that it was, indeed, a hoax. and that they likely used a green screen (aka chroma key) like the one in THIS LINK. I took this as a challenge to see if I could do it and how long it would take. 

I've been using the video editing software DaVinci Resolve for a couple of weeks and my knowledge of advance features is very limited. You can download and use it FOR FREE. It's just as powerful as its competition, so it's worth a look. I then looked up a tutorial video about how to use the green screen with the program. The video was 10 minutes long. I then filmed the following video which took me about 3 minutes. All in all, I probably spent 30 minutes researching, shooting, and editing to produce an effect similar to that which you can see in the popular chinese video...and with no prior knowledge of how to make it work in any video editing software. My grandpa always said, "don't believe everything you hear." Well, this now applies to video, too. Be skeptical. 

(Aaron Grubb Photography) chinese chromakey cloak fake green hoax invisibility quantum screen video videography https://aarongrubb.com/blog/2018/1/invisibility-cloak-how-to-fake-it-in-video Mon, 08 Jan 2018 17:27:19 GMT
Correcting Green Skin Tones in Portraits https://aarongrubb.com/blog/2017/12/correcting-green-skin-tones-in-portraits One problem that I run into from time to time is "off-colors" caused by the sun reflecting off of grass or by mixed lighting - for example, natural light mixed with artificial light. When at a wedding, sometimes it's unavoidable. Obviously, it's a common problem, so I wrote an article and an accompanying video to show how to fix the problem. Within the article is the link to the video, but you can watch it here if you'd rather:



(Aaron Grubb Photography) photography photoshop portrait photography portraits wedding photography https://aarongrubb.com/blog/2017/12/correcting-green-skin-tones-in-portraits Tue, 12 Dec 2017 16:58:48 GMT
15 Christmas Gift Ideas for Photographers https://aarongrubb.com/blog/2017/12/15-christmas-gift-ideas-for-photographers It's hard to know what to get for your friends and family at Christmas time, no matter who they are, but as a photographer, I know that it can be difficult to choose a gift for the photographer in your life. I recently wrote an article on Photographers' Cooperative, a website that I recently co-founded, about this. In the article, I suggest 15 different items (plus, some bonuses), mostly for amateur or hobbyist photographers, that could be great gifts. Check it out here: https://www.photographerscooperative.com/single-post/2017/12/10/15-Awesome-Gift-Ideas-for-Photographers

Marcus Whitman 1Marcus Whitman 1


here's the video I made before writing the article - the description contains more example images than the article, so that's why I'm including it. Thanks! Subscribe if you will :)

(Aaron Grubb Photography) 2017 birthday gifts cameras christmas christmas gifts for photographer gadgets gear gift ideas gifts lenses photographer photography https://aarongrubb.com/blog/2017/12/15-christmas-gift-ideas-for-photographers Mon, 11 Dec 2017 19:32:18 GMT
Who Should You Hire for Your Walla Walla Wedding? https://aarongrubb.com/blog/2015/12/who-should-you-hire-for-your-walla-walla-wedding  

Recommended Vendors in Walla Walla

Planning a wedding can be stressful for many reasons, and one of the major reasons can be finding the right vendors to fulfill your needs. You can read reviews, of course, but sometimes there aren’t many, or they are mixed, so how do you know who’s going to be amazing and who might leave something to be desired? I’ve worked with a lot of people in the Walla Walla area and have experienced the good and the bad, so I’ve put together a list of recommended vendors to help you in the decision making process.



People often underestimate the importance of hiring a planner. I can’t tell you how many weddings I’ve been to that have, on one extreme, gone beautifully smooth, and on the other extreme, were painfully chaotic. Many of the chaotic or, at least, off schedule weddings I’ve experienced have not had a planner. I always recommend that you hire a planner, and I've worked with Gigi from Gigi Hickman Events as well as Kylie from One Love Weddings and Events. They will guide you through planning and will be present on the day of your wedding to make sure your big event goes as planned (and to keep you sane :) ). 



The venue you choose can dramatically affect the mood of your wedding. I don’t have a single favorite venue, so I’ll list my favorites. Bella Flora Farms is nice for several reasons: they have reasonably nice spaces for both the guys and girls to get ready in and all the room you need for both the ceremony and reception. This way, everyone doesn’t have to do as much driving around, and communication and coordination is easier. Also, your vendors such as your photographer, videographer, makeup and hair specialists, and florists don’t have to attempt to make it to and from the various locations in a timely manner. Similarly, Basel Cellars, Creekstone Gardens, The Marcus Whitman, Winn Homestead, and Walla Walla River Estate provide on-site facilities. Doing everything at one facility also adds a cohesive quality to the photos and video.



Another factor that can be instrumental in helping your wedding run smoothly is a friendly, competent DJ. They aren’t just there to play music after all. Not only can they make sure that you’ve got reliable sound and a tailored music selection for your ceremony and reception, they can smooth the transitions between ‘activities’. A lot can go wrong without a professional DJ running things. My favorite DJ services in the area are Platinum Entertainment and Loney Tunes (Jon Loney). In my experience, they’ve always been professional, prompt, and on point.  



I’m finding it difficult to choose a favorite caterer, so here are my favorites:  The Olive, The Marcus Whitman, Bon Appétit, and A Chef’s Creation



Here’s a list: The Olive, Frosted, Colville St Patisserie, Hidden Valley Bakery

Details of interest: Frosted specializes in cupcakes and has some gluten-free options. The Colville St Patisserie is amazing and can provide you with a truly unique wedding cake that tastes unlike any other. They can also provide you with other delicious pastries like macarons (also gluten free). Hidden Valley Bakery is an excellent place to get a delicious, beautiful cake, and if you’re looking for gluten-free options, they are fantastic.


Tables, Chairs, Etc.

There are other places to rent tables, chairs, and other decorations, but I don’t think that Walla Walla has anyone better than Fleurissant Event Rentals and Design. They provide unique options that set them apart. From the solid wood tables to the Belgian linen sofas, their offerings exude quality and class.


Hair and Makeup

I’ve had good experiences with many of the hair and makeup artists around town. A few of note are Megan at Impress Salon, the staff at Misbehaven, and the Beehive.



My absolute favorite florist in Walla Walla is Anne at Amoré Floral Designs. She has decades of experience, talent, and craftsmanship that shows when she creates her beautiful arrangements.


Transportation & Limo

I’ve worked with Dream Ride Charters on many occasions, and they’ve always been friendly and professional. I also recently had the chance to see D’lux Limousine in action and they were great, too.


Dresses and Tuxes

I don’t have a lot to say in this category, but I’ve heard good things about Mann’s House of Brides in Walla Walla and Amy’s Bridal in Tri-Cities.



I feel I can confidently recommend one officiant in particular: Cecilia McKean 

Here's a quote from her: "I am an ordained minister offering creative wedding services written with the beliefs and values of each couple in mind.   In addition to weddings for same-gender and opposite-gender couples I also offer rituals to mark life events including house blessings, baby blessings and ceremonies honoring the ending of relationships." You can email here at ceciliamckean@gmail.com or call her at (509) 240 2494

Photo, Video, and Photobooth

Because I provide these options, I’ll be leaving this section empty :) but if I’m unable to help you with one of these offerings, feel free to send me an email, and I’ll provide you with names of people who I trust to fill those needs.




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(Aaron Grubb Photography) barn bouquet cake cakes catering ceremony dj dress dresses florist flowers food hair limos limousines locations makeup officiants photobooth photographer photography planner reception rentals tables transportation vendors venues video walla wedding wine winery https://aarongrubb.com/blog/2015/12/who-should-you-hire-for-your-walla-walla-wedding Wed, 23 Dec 2015 23:12:38 GMT